на их сайте есть встроенный автопереводчик страниц - клавиша выбора слева в нижнем углу...- регестрируйтесь и получайте полный доступ к материалам...
надо мне тогда текст скопировать и здесь разместить...прочитать с гугл переводчиком можно...вполне вразумительно получается...
да,...там вроде легко было зарегестрироваться?
основная идея - сделать бутерброд - понж- шёлк 5( не знаю что это такое,какой то супер тонкий материал судя по всему...- можно приобрести в интернет магазинах- нам нужен N5 или 8 - это потолще будет) , между двумя слоями специальной реставрационной ,почти невидимой бумаги с термоактивирующимся клеевым слоем FILMOPLAST R
я скинул скриншоты страниц с этими материаоами...
в итоге,после окраски ,сборки имеем паруса из материала очень близко к масштабу...это почти как если бы делать паруса из папиросной бумаги,но с характеристиками почти как настоящая ткань!!!
взято отсюда:
https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t ... sstab.html
...
First of all:
sails made of real linen look good and suitable on models in larger scales. The smaller the scale, the more difficult it is to find suitable "material". Sails that are too thick and whose structure is too coarse spoil the overall impression.
In addition, it is difficult to show canvas sails other than hanging or evenly billowing. It is particularly difficult to depict partially salvaged, back standing or irregularly billowing sails, as well as sails that nestle against shrouds or guys.
Daniel (Dafi) invented laminate sails for this purpose, which are now being imitated by several model makers. Upon request, I will briefly summarize my personal experiences here.
Laminate sails are extremely thin, have the tear resistance of silk, but the crease and fold properties of paper.
Sails made of silk are difficult to puff and even more difficult to kink or fold, their silky, shiny surface has a very fine structure, but does not resemble linen. They cannot be colored either. Sails made of paper can be colored and have a matt surface, but they are not tear-resistant enough, have no fabric structure and do not crease prototypically. The laminate sails combine the good properties suppress the unwanted.
The materials:
White silk ponge No. 5, easy to get (Ebay etc.)
Filmoplast R. A special Japanese paper intended, among other things, for repairing books. There is a 2 cm wide tape (length 20 meters) quite inexpensive and as a 31 cm wide material (length 50 meters) from 100 euros. Unfortunately there are no in-between sizes. A collective purchase could reduce the price, even with 10 meters you can get by for a lifetime.
My approach
I laminate a suitable piece of silk on both sides with Filmoplast. This is done with an iron on the "silk" level. Filmoplast has one side that carries an adhesive that is activated by the heat.
I recommend laminating on a perfectly clean glass plate to prevent sticking or discoloration of the material. It must also be ensured that the iron (not a steam iron!) Is also absolutely clean. It is best to clean it with benzine or the like.
I draw the shape of the sail and cut out the sail.
I cut the seams as thin strips of film plastic. The width depends on the scale. Cutting strips less than 1 mm wide is tricky. I press an approximately 2 cm wide strip of film plastic with the adhesive film that has not yet been activated onto the clean glass pane, it has a certain adhesion there, which makes it much easier to separate narrow strips. As a tool I use an as yet unused cutter blade
I only mark the position of the seams [!] On the edges of the sail with as thin a pencil line as possible. But there are certainly other methods. The strips (seams) are also ironed on. Admittedly, this is very delicate work. I have had good experiences with laying a strip that is significantly longer than needed across the sail and fixing it outside the sail with a little pressure on the glass plate before I iron it on. The most important thing, however, is to get a feel for this very thin and delicate material. In the beginning the strips tear me apart; then gradually my fingers understand how careful they have to be with it.
When one side of the sail is lamented with the stripes I turn it over and lament the stripes onto the back. A light source under the glass makes it much easier to find the right position for the strips. Of course you can also laminate the so-called clothes or other reinforcements from small pieces of filmoplast.
I attach the finished sails to yards, rods or gaffs in the familiar way. Then I soak them with a mixture of water and glue, to which tea may be added to make the sails darker. When damp / wet, the sails can be bulged, compressed or folded. When they dry again, the glue will hold them in the desired position. Until then, I fixed them with tape or thread. The most elegant way to shape a damp laminate sail is to blow it into the desired position with a blow dryer. The warm air ensures that the sail dries in no time.
Some examples of laminate sails. The body length of the model is 10 cm!
